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It happened like this … an English family move to France. Part 1. Leaving home.

At the begining, 1989.

Well, to be blunt, we were broke. We had been hit by the UK property crash in 1989 and we lost everything almost overnight. And that is why we moved to France.  No other reason.

In the preceding months, before we realized how serious the financial crisis would be, we had bought a little fermette, largely uninhabitable, in the centre of France, as fashion dictated.  The intention was to develop, as the British were hungry for cheap property in France and – goodness – it was cheap!   Although, before we met, we had both lived abroad a great deal, we were not immune to the British dream-misconception that life would be “different” in France.  Like so many of our compatriots we thought it could be an “escape” of some kind … in those days France was considerably cheaper.  Surely life would be easier ?  Surely it would be different ?

Well, yes, it was different – it was French!

fermette at Palluau-sur-Indre  This was the first property we bought, more-or-less, for the price of a garden shed in the UK.  I am standing by the door with one of the children.  The centre of France was a big mistake, though we were not to know it then. Although property was amazingly cheap, the area was bitterly cold in the winter and stiflingly hot in the summer – a horrid, heavy kind of heat that was not pleasant at all. It was also a very backward part of the country, and seemed stuck in the dark ages. Many of the locals had no indoor plumbing and used an out-house, or even a bucket.  I am not saying that as a criticism – I am just describing the way it was.

In the UK I had been teaching and Bruce ran a building firm, buying up the last of the run-down old houses in Hastings, splitting them up in to flats and then selling them.  It was exceptionally high-risk and hard work, but we were both extremely energetic, positive and determined people.

I taught French & Spanish

I had stopped teaching while expecting our third child, born in 1988. That was the happiest patch of my life, at home with a very good baby, with whom I was utterly besotted.  Pippa and William were aged 7 and 9 respectively and they went to a local prep school.  We had a lovely house that we had purchased when William was new-born.  We bought it as a two-up and two-down derelict cottage, probably the last one in Sussex.  We had enlarged and renovated it and we were rightly very proud of it.  We had good money, a smart car, holidays abroad. Even my teaching position had been pleasant enough.

 

Sometimes when I look back on that energy I can hardly believe it.  I used to pop home during my lunch break at school to mow the grass – at first a half acre of derelict shrubbery and scrub and, bit by bit, as I cut the growth back and seeded, mowed and re-seeded, it turned in to lovely green grass, English grass.  I don’t know why I mention it here, for I have never been interested in gardening, but I suppose because it was one of the things I missed the most when we were in France.  My English garden with London pride growing in the borders.

I had loads of friends.  I have always been a chatty, up-front person.  I like girls, I like women.  I always had a chum with me when I went shopping or when I took the children out.  It is part of the very heart and structure of an English woman’s life, and another thing that I missed dreadfully once we moved to France where it was much harder to make friends, and to find the time to maintain any potential friendships.

We worked as a team.

Unable to meet bills or pay the mortgage on our home in England, we were just one more family amid hundreds and hundreds who lost out badly in 1989, many of whom reformed their lives around Council houses and menial jobs to survive.  What made us different was that we believed very strongly in ourselves.  We had had a lovely lifestyle and we wanted it back. We were hard-working and willing to take a risk.  We got on really well together and worked as a team, always.  We had huge energy, and we didn’t mind roughing it when we had to.  Bruce could turn his hand to almost anything, he was exceptionally skilled, and I could do the rest.  When I look back I realize we were multi-talented, but it didn’t occur to me then.  The main things were our enthusiasm, our determination and our energy.  We had three little children, but we scooped them up in to whatever situation we were in, and just got on with it.

We decided to let our lovely home, so we put a tenant in and we moved to France.  I will always remember the removal man telling me he moved a UK family to France every week.  As he made his notes he looked straight at me as added: “and every week I move a family home again”.  He was trying to warn me.

The tenant’s rent paid the worst of the mortgage.  About four months later he announced that he would like to buy the property and, although we’d by far have preferred to have kept it, we really had no choice but to sell.  And then, for no reason, he changed his mind, bought elsewhere, the bank forclosed and we lost the house.  I cried for weeks – for years.

Speaking French.

Periodically somebody will say to me “how lucky you could speak French!”.  Being able to speak French was, of course, a huge advantage compared to most foreigners trying to set up a new life in France.  Conversely, however, it was a disadvantage in more ways than one would imagine.  Had neither of us been able to speak French we’d have bumbled along together.  But as I spoke it well, thanks to childhood years in New Caledonia, everything fell on to my shoulders.  Talking to the teachers, helping with homework, opening a bank account, dealing with mortgage applications, insurance policies, the endless red tape, answering the phone, finding an accountant, applying for child allowance – all of a sudden I was no longer a housewife-cum-teacher.  It was exhausting.  Jake was still getting us up in the night from time to time, the children were confused and lost in school, and we had to find a way of earning money very quickly indeed.

French banks

The other key to our success was the French banking system.  It was extraordinarily simple at the time, and in no time at all we were able to buy a bigger and better property called La Haute Perriere with 100% loan from a French bank.  They simply wanted to know how much we had earned the previous year, and that had been a lot.  They wrote it down on a piece of paper, got us to sign it, and were not interested in the fact that we had lost that income for good.

Now, one has to understand that, although on the one hand it was utterly crazy – crazy! – to buy such a big property, there were reasons behind it.  Folly, sure, but good reasons too.  Both Bruce and I always had a feeling of “just round the next corner … ” and “in just a month or two …”  We had complete confidence that things would work out well. Considering our ambitions, and the state we were in, that confidence sometimes beggared belief.  There was no question of things not working out well.  A possible failure didn’t enter in to the equation.  A big house like La Haute Perriere gave us a level of kudos, not for the local people but to our very selves.  It is a bit like looking smart when you go out – you somehow just feel better, even though you are the same person.  Our frame of mind, our mindset and our whole personal aura was go for it! Make it happen! get there!

That is what drove us on.

lhp facade 001  I love this picture because I can just see Jake toddling as fast as his little leggies would carry him, towards the camera. Behind him I am just moving forwards to catch him.  The middle floor of this property had been arranged as a 3 bedroom flat, and that is where we lived.  There was a top floor which was accessed via a steep staircase at one end of the property; we called this The Tower.  There was a new roof but apart from that no work had been done on that floor and it was just a huge long attic that the children played in.  There were all sorts of relics up there, the strangest of all being five or six massive oriental rugs, laid out on the floor, one on top of the other.  They were doubtless worth a fortune, but there was no way of getting them down the stairs and we puzzled as to how they got up there.  It must have been when the roof was removed.   The bottom floor was three massive, bare rooms, decorated and boasting 18th Century tiled floors and a huge fireplace at one end.  The property had full central heating which was unusual for that part of France in those days – and gosh, was that needed that first bitter bitter winter!  This huge house had just the one bathroom and toilet, which was also typical of French homes at that time.  There were several acres of fenced garden, a tennis court, and endless outbuildings to include a lovely 17th Century dove cote.

We sold our little fermette in Palluau to some ambitious Brits who were seeking “the easy life”, and we made a good profit.  Doing this was clearly the way to make some good money and to move forwards.  We had befriended a local notaire who was very keen to sell to les anglais, and thence very keen to see me set up an estate agency.  In those days it was more usual to have an office and a shop-front to give us a high street presence, but we didn’t even consider this as it was unwanted overheads.  We arranged one of the large and more comofrtable downstairs rooms as an office and, along with my old typewriter, a phone, a filing cabinet and a second-hand photocopier, we set up business.  Bruce built two long “desks” that covered two walls, and on these we were able to lay out the photocopies of the properties, address envelopes and so on.

Success.

We were successful right from the word go.  No, not big success, but enough to live on, pay for the house and run the car. Thanks largely to the notaire, the jungle-drums worked like magic and we soon had a big file of properties for sale, mostly run-down fermettes, which was what the Brits were generally after.  And the local people were very keen to sell – of course! – at as good a price as possible.  We ignored the French market because French buyers didn’t need us – they had estate agents of their own – and concentrated on the UK market, placing ads in The Lady and the Telegraph.  There was no internet in those days, so enquiries came in by phone or by fax, sometimes ten enquiries in one day and then none for a month.  The property details had to be posted to the UK, and then after a few follow-up calls we’d wait for people to come to France and view.  For every 100 potential buyers I got in to my car, and drove them round the countryside showing them any suitable houses,  about 3 would actually buy something.  I took as large a commission as I could, for those that did buy had to make up, financially, for those who didn’t buy.

My property sales were dealt with by the same notaire , who benefitted from the transactions, of course.  He, in turn, kept one ear to the ground for suitable properties for me.  He supplied me with sales papers in English that I should get my clients to sign, and was a good source of support and general information at a time when I was paddling in the dark.

He didn’t trouble to mention to me – and perhaps he genuinely didn’t think of it – that there are very strict laws about conveyancing in France and that, what you could at that time do in all freedom in the UK was illegal in France, and carried a prison sentence.

Part 2

I haven’t read this, I just came across it on Google & thought it looked interesting:-

http://www.dontmovetofrance.co.uk/DontMovetoFrance.co.uk/Dont_Move_to_France.html

Posted by Catherine Broughton on 15 September 2013
Catherine is a novelist, a poet and an artist. Her books are available from this site as e-books or can be ordered from any leading book store or library.
  • Anonymous

    Great read, please keep posting!

  • CatherineBroughton

    Thank you whoever that is! I think I will post 2 or 3 times a week. Parts 2 and 3 are ready anyway.

    • http://www.martinblack.com/ Martin

      oh, more please! : )

      • http://www.turquoisemoon.co.uk Catherine

        Thanks Martin – that is so encouraging for me ! Next one tomorrow – 3 times a week I thought ….

  • CatherineBroughton

    Thanks for your comments – not just on here but on loads of other places too. HUgely appreciated. I will post on Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays – all being well !

  • John Holland

    Great blog! I love the photos too. :)

  • Susanne

    Most interesting – reminds me of my own time in France. And a summer in the Morvan. Will love to read the suite – especially after the last cliffhanger ;-)

    • http://www.turquoisemoon.co.uk Catherine

      Hello Suzanne. Glad you like it.

  • Pingback: It happened like this…an English family move to France, Part 2 | Living in France

  • Pingback: It happened like this…an English family move to France, Part 2 | Catherine Broughton's Blog

  • Edward Pascoe

    I like your story – but I think you moved earlier than I did and it was probably a lot easier, with huge amounts of people wanting to buy in France, not the case from 2008 when things went wrong. I’m the author of http://www.dontmovetofrance.com and having lost my whole wealth there think I am very qualified to make certain statements. There is no doubt a lot of people have a lot to earn by recommending the French Property market, and it’s a shame the FPN never ever addressed the issue of corruption in France.
    2) The Mayors really are corrupt, and have lived in the same miserable little towns all their life.
    3) If they French can screw you, then they will
    4) When you complain about 3) they’ll change the facts, to protect their own countrymen
    5) It can often head to Court, where you are up against local crooks, and people with vested interests. There is no guarantee that you will win, even if you have been defrauded.

    In brief, I was wealthy before I went to France, and it is the worse thing I have ever done in my life, I have no pension as I always invested in property, and the future looks very bleak. I survive on charity, and suicide could be an option further down the line.

    I hope you leave my comment here. I have saved it, if you delete it I will post it and the thread on my website(s). I do like free speech.

    • CatherineBroughton

      Hello Edward. Thanks for your comment. No – I won’t delete it – it is relevant. If you read on – which I hope you will – you will see that I faced similar traumas as the years went by ….

      • Edward Pascoe

        Many thanks. Edward

    • Anonymous

      I feel sorry for you but I also feel a bit hurt, especially by your website, I mean, come on, nuclear explosions in the background? That’s a bit over the top. I was born in France, I really like my country and I know it has a lot of flaws, but reading about this makes me feel like a lot of people think we’re the spawn of the devil who only live to hurt british people. We don’t.

      • http://www.turquoisemoon.co.uk Catherine

        This is directed at Edward, I take it? So I expect he replied – he is a totally different website etc. from me. However, I will say that there is no need to feel “hurt”. Every country has its pros and cons and I doubt anybody would imagine that these problems are uniquely French. It is great that you love your own country – I have come to love it too!

  • soleil morgan

    good to know your history in moving to France, I wish to move to France permanently from America. Love to read more of your story.

    • http://www.turquoisemoon.co.uk Catherine

      Thanks for this Morgan. There is a link at the bottom of each part. Good luck with your move.

    • CatherineBroughton

      Thanks for your comment Morgan, and good luck with your move to France. You can follow the blogs by clicking on the link at the bottom of each one.

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